2 stroke wizard tuned pipe free download

Tips on welding thing metal 1. You travel faster and build up less heat, making it less likely to blow holes in your project.

This way, the hottest part of the weld is over top of THICKER metal because you ended on top of your previous weld making it less likely you blow holes in it.

If you do blow holes in your metal, using a filler rod for acetlyne or TIG welding along with your MIG welder can put enough metal in the hole quickly without getting it too hot and making the hole WORSE. Just hold the rod in your left hand, keeping it over the hole, and weld over top of it with the MIG welder.

Welding your expansion chamber Individual parts: Pick one of the cones or cylinders and start by welding up the joint as explained above. I started with the belly of the pipe the center cylinder. Tack weld it together, then weld it up. You can do one piece at a time and then weld the pieces together, or you can weld up all of the pieces and then weld the pieces together.

Joining parts: Again, I can't stress how important it is that the joints line up as perfectly as possible. If you took your time during the layout step, they should be pretty accurate, but you will have to do some tweaking to make sure the ends you are joining are both perfect circles and that they line up with each other. The stake table and grinder can be your friend here- just be sure if you grind anything it IS absolutely necessary.

Once you are sure they are lined up, tack the 2 pieces together as shown in Picture 7 , then clean up the burnt flux if you are using a flux core welder, and start welding! See Picture 8. You can get things very close this way if you are patient Keep on adding pieces until you are done!

See Pictures So you have a pipe How the heck is this thing going to fit on the bike!? Whatever machine you are building this for, its very unlikely that the port comes out of the engine in a way that will allow you a straight shot out to put your pipe on We have to "curve" the pipe around both to avoid obstacles AND to make it shorter- 'cause you really don't want 3 feet of pipe sticking out behind your bike! There are two ways to do this- the easy way, and the hard way.

Grahm Bell's book And it's HARD. Requires a lot of thinking, planning, and way more welding. Goes like this: 1. Decide where you want the "bend" in the pipe. Cut the pipe straight through. On one side, starting at the widest point of the circle the diameter in the direction you want the pipe to bend, cut off a sliver at the angle you want the pipe to go. See Picture 2. Weld the sliver back on to the same piece of pipe, just on the opposite side.

See Picture 3. Weld the other half of the pipe to the first half. Repeat for every bend As you can see, its very hard to get everything to line up nicely. I did the entire first cone this way, and was not pleased with the results. I ended up building a new first cone, and used the easy way on it. I feel it turned out MUCH nicer- and while it is more angular it was so much simpler to do.

Decide where pipe is to be bent and at what angle Picture 7 2. Divide angle in half angle as measured from the centerline of the pipe, see Picture 8 , cut pipe in direction you want it bent at half of the desired angle. Rotate one of the cut halves of pipe degrees, weld together Pictures There are programs out there and if you enjoy math, you could sit down before you started building and figure out all of the angles for the cones and have done it in one fell swoop- basically eliminating this whole step.

I don't enjoy math that much, and since this is a one-off project, it was easier to build the pipe, then cut and fit like this. Just keep cutting, welding, and test fitting Pictures to the bike as you go to make sure the pipe is going the direction you want it to go. My pipe came out better than I had hoped, but I do still think it could have been a lot better as far as fitting to the bike goes.

Hey, its only my 2nd attempt, can't complain too much! You can see in Pictures How the pipe turned out. After I had experimented with both methods of bending the pipe, I went back and re-did the first cone of the pipe using the "easy" method, and it turned out much better.

Mounting the pipe can be a little tricky. Two strokes in general vibrate a lot, at a high frequency. The pipe is also containing pressure waves- expanding and contracting rapidly. This can cause parts to shake and metal fatigue, so you want to be sure the muffler you've spent so much time on is well mounted with strong brackets or "Hangers" to keep the pipe from shaking, fatiguing, and eventually breaking. To help absorb some of these vibrations, I built some "isolation" mounts.

These are not true isolation mounts in that the bolt goes all the way through the rubber and bolts solidly to the frame.

Basically, its just a large rubber washer that will hopefully absorb some of the vibrations. Building the Isolation Mounts 1.

Drill a hole through a rubber stopper- the hole needs to be big enough for the bolt and the stopper needs to be big enough for your application. Cut the stopper in half- it doesnt need to be that tall! Building the Brackets Once you have the isolation mounts built, you can start figuring out where to place your pipe hangers. According to the books, the best way to build the hangers is to use the same metal used for the pipe, but layer it so that it's twice as thick.

This way, you also have two tabs to weld to the pipe- one on each side. You will need to build your bracket to fit where it needs to go- take your time and lots of measurements! If you are using isolation mounts, be sure to take into consideration that it's a lot thicker so the bracket will need to be out further.

Attaching the Brackets To attach the bracket to the pipe, tighten the pipe to the cylinder and make sure the pipe sits where you want it to be. Tighten the bracket to the frame. Tack the bracket on to the pipe, then remove the pipe and finish weld the bracket. If you are bending or forcing the pipe or bracket into position, things aren't going to line up well when you remove the pipe and it can put pressure on the pipe causing it to fatigue and fail.

Place brackets so that no large section of the pipe is left hanging freely- again, thats inviting metal fatigue both from the engine vibrating and hitting bumps while riding. In these pictures, the entire back half of my pipe is hanging free. I plan to add another long hanger behind the brake lever, as shown in Picture 7.

Now that you think your pipe is "done, it's time to test. Ideally, you dyno'ed your bike before you did all of this work, or you at least know how much horsepower your engine makes stock. Check the fuel, oil, and whatever else is important, and fire it up! VERY important Note! As was brought to my attention by maxpower49, I forgot to mention the domino of putting on a tuned pipe.

Since a tuned pipe will generally flow more air through it, the jetting in the carb needs to be changed to match. If more air flows through the engine with the same amount of gas, it will cause a lean condition which can be VERY bad for your engine!

With a custom job like this, it's a process of trial and error that involves a lot of swapping of jets and lots of spark plugs. It's safer to guess rich too big on the main jet and then move smaller in little steps than it is to go larger in little steps.

Here's the quick version of how to jet your engine: Make an educated guess and guess on the rich or large size. Install the jet and a NEW spark plug. Start the engine, let it get good and warm, and then shut it off. It works best if you can actually ride it for a bit to put the engine under load. Remove the spark plug and compare to the chart in Picture 6.

You want the tip of the plug to be a nice chocolate brown. This could probably be an entire instructable in itself. Testing While its running, take a moment to inspect for leaks. One problem with welding it the way I did, if I wasn't paying close attention I would miss a few pinholes.

They are very easy to locate when the bike is running- the pipe is under pressure so anywhere there is a hole, smoke will jet out. Mark the holes if any and be sure to weld them up.

If you have access to a dyno, run some tests! If not, there's always the "seat-of-your-pants" dyno. I measured performance by speed- my bike would top out at 50 mph in 4th gear with the stock pipe. With the first pipe I built, it would hit 50 mph in THIRD gear, but the power band was so narrow that as soon as I put it in 4th the bike could barely hold 50 mph.

Once you are satisfied with the location and performance of your expansion chamber, make it look good! Not just because you spent so much time building it, but because its metal, and it WILL rust.

Thoroughly clean the outside of any oil, dust, or welding debris. A wire wheel on a grinder works great! I haven't quite made it to this step yet, I'm still building the rearsets, kickstand, and custom brake lever for my bike. There you go! I hope you have enjoyed this instructable on hand forming an expansion chamber. Liberally apply assembly lubricant to the drive gear and install the distributor using the supplied gasket so that the rotor.

This small Java applet uses design rules according to [], [], and [], to size a tuned pipe for a 2 stroke piston engine. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat.

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